Paris

We have recently returned from a wonderful five days in Paris. It was my first trip there after many years of wanting to go.
We caught the train from Ruffec (only 10 minutes down the road) and the train went non stop into Montparnasse station. we arrived on the Friday just before midday.As we had a large case we decided to get a taxi so we followed the signs into the bowels of the station and asked the first taxi driver to take us to our hotel. He didn't know the hotel, nor it would seem the road until I got the confirmation out and showed it to hi, His response was that it wasn't far so we were left wondering whether he would take us or not. Anyway it transpired that he would. Once in the cab he tries to run over several pedestrians at crossings and rushed through lights whatever colour they were showing. On top of this he muttered constantly - certainly some swear words coming out. To cap it all he had body odour. As we got out at the hotel we knew it could only get better after a ride with scary, smelly Tourettes suffering taxi driver.
And indeed it did.

We were upgraded and had a lovely room (very small bathroom but as the hotel was old it had been created where ever space allowed). Staff were lovely and asked if we wanted to speak French or English which was great for Phil. From our very small balcony we could see the top of the Eiffel Tower.

We explored the area that afternoon after a lovely lunch in a nearby café and walked down to Notre Dame passed the Sorbonne. We were staying in the Latin Quarter (5th arrondissement) on the left bank which is also the student area. It is named because Latin was the language in which lessons were taught. we found a great cafe/bar called Le Petit Pont by the river across from Notre Dame. Although it was November we sat outside under infra red heaters and watched the world go by.

Notre Dame

We returned to this area that evening for dinner. We had a wonderful meal in a little place in the small winding streets close to Notre Dame. The waiter was working on his own and had so many tables to look after that we feared we may not get served but as soon as we placed our order he managed to remain attentive and we couldn't fault the service at all.

The hotel had a lovely salon where there was an honesty bar so we had a nightcap back there.

The following day we headed out for coffee (espresso) and croissants. After this we got on a hop on, hop off bus as in our experience elsewhere (particularly Madeira, Edinburgh and Florence) this is a great way to see a city and orientate whilst learning some history and what is what. Sadly this tour was disappointing. The commentary was poor and we passed many buildings of note without any commentary whatsoever. Also the music was repetitive and the stops were few and far between.
We got off at the top of the Champs Elysees near the Arc de Triomphe and went under the road to come up under the arch. It is beautiful and the eternal flame and the tomb of the unknown soldier were lovely. Especially as only four days earlier we had seen the ceremony for Armistice on television. All the flowers were still fresh and it was quite a moment.

Arc de Triomphe

Eternal Flame at tomb of unknown soldier

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

We stopped for an expensive espresso in a Champs Elysee cafe before hopping on the bus again. This was the highlight for me as when I plugged my earphones in and we set of around the Arc de Triomphe, Gary Moore's Parisenne Walkways played into my ears. Quite an emotional moment for me. 

Our next hop off was at the Eiffel Tower. I wasn't prepared for how truly awesome it is - in the true sense of the word. It towers above the city and in my mind is very beautiful I thought it would be grey but in fact it was more burnished brown.

Eiffel Tower

Eiffel Tower and fountains

From here we walked past the fountains to Trocadero. The fountains have a rythm and different fountains spurt at different times. Very beautiful. 

Fountains

Fountains

At this point the sun came out and we saw the first blue sky since we arrived. It was also the last for the rest of our stay.
There was an outside table (protected from the wind and under infra red lights)at the Trocdero cafe. We shared a plate of charcuterie and had a glass of wine with a great view of the Eiffel Tower - which by the way can change in height as much as 6 inches/15 cms depending on the temperature - Perfect!  A couple arrived at the table next to us and he staring taking photos of the girl's hand around a wine glass. On leaving I remarked on her pretty ring and she said that he had proposed to her that morning during their trip from Italy. Lovely!


We endured the rest of the tour, learning very little and finally got back to our starting point. Whilst we had a two day ticket we decided we had milked that route dry and wouldn't bother again.

Late afternoon we searched out Harry's Bar. The entire bar was brought over from the US during prohibition and was a big hit in Paris. Not far from the Opera. A friend had recommended it to us and it was where the Bloody Mary was invented. Had to be done.

Bloody Mary

Harry's Bar

The following day was Sunday and we set off to walk to Musee d'Orsay and en route found a typically French cafe for breakfast.

The Musee d'Orsay was once a railway station, built for the 1900 exhibition, but now is a museum housing a great collection of impressionist paintings.
What a stunning building and although I demonstrate a huge lack of knowledge about art it was wonderful to see paintings that are so familiar to me, such as waterlilies by Monet and ballerinas by Degas.

We had lunch in the restaurant there which has the most beautiful ornate ceiling and chandeliers. although the decor was rich the prices were reasonable and the service was great. Really beats some of these self service places the National Trust often have. Food was great too.

Restaurant ceiling - Musee d'Orsay

We left Musee D'Orsay in the rain and headed through the Jardin de Tuileries (lovely garden so called because they were built where tiles were once made). In fact a palace was built there for Catherine de Medici which is no longer there but the gardens still remain. We reached Place de la Concorde and the rain was getting heavier and heavier so we decided to hail a cab and go back to the hotel to get ready for our big evening out.

We left the hotel, dried out and much smarter, to head for our venue for the evening - the Moulin Rouge.
Still raining but at least we queued under cover.
Phil had booked this dinner and show and we ate a nice meal with champagne (of course) After we finished the champagne we wanted to order another bottle. A bottle of rose was an extortionate €75! During the meal a couple of singers who were very good entertained us. The other people stared arriving who had come for the show only. They managed to get six people on our table that was only intended for four. They even closed down the serving table that the waiters had used and managed to squeeze six on there as well as at all the other tables. The tables are set on layers like galleries around the room with a stage on one side. The lamps are red and very pretty.
The show was amazing. Costumes were stunning and the singing and dancing were superb. Only mild criticism was that I have now seen enough of other women's breasts to last a lifetime. Some subtly displayed and some not to much.
There was one act with a couple of roller dancers which was incredible. The girl was swung over the heads of the audience and swizzled horizontally whilst spinning around and around. Another great act was three acrobats, also over the audiences heads. One was thrown into the audience and whilst 'flying' over their heads the others pulled him back on stage. A ventriloquist was also superb.

So ended out third day.

On the Monday we headed for the Christmas market on the Champs Elysees.
A wonderful collection of stalls that run up and down the Champs Elysees.
Cheeses, sausages, food, trinkets, champagne, scarves, lots of wonderful stalls for presents.

Pink, green and blue cheese

One of the food stalls

Afterwards we walked to Galeries Lafayette as my friend Mandy said I must go. We walked for a long way in the wrong direction but eventually found it - next to Printemps which was a beautiful store as well. However in the main GL building the ceiling and galleries are a sight to behold. The lifts are also a pretty picture.

If you visit Paris you should go , but the flagship is this one by the opera and not the one at Montparnasse.

Stunning domed ceiling at Galeries Lafayette

Upside down Xmas Tree and galleries at Galeries Lafayette

We came out of this beautiful department store and walked past the Opera which inspired Phantom of the opera and realised we were very close to Harry's Bar. Because it was still raining we dived inside for a sneeky Bloody Mary. Perfect!

On the Tuesday we took an hour boat trip with commentary from under the Eiffel Tower. This was much more interesting than the bus and in spite of the weather the boat was heated and cosy and had a bar. Great view of so many buildings from the river. After this we headed on the Metro to Montmartre where our friends Mike and Maria were spending a couple of days. We got off at a stop called Chateau Rouge - not the best stop to get off at but we trudged up the hill from there to Sacre Coeur which has an amazing view looking down over the whole of Paris. We wandered around Montmartre and the Artists Square and found a lovely painting of Paris - perfect for our new kitchen/living space before meeting up with our friends and having a lovely evening.

View of Paris from Sacre Coeur

Sacre Coeur

Artists Square, Monmartre

Sacre Coeur at night

On the Wednesday we packed our bags as we were catching the train back to Ruffec mid afternoon.

We left our bags in reception and walked down towards Notre Dame. After croissants and coffee we crossed to Isle de Saint Louis to go to Berthillons. We have been told he is the best ice cream maker in Paris. When we arrived however we were so cold we decided that ice cream would have to wait until our next trip - hopefully in warmer weather. We wandered around this pretty area around and found after five days in Paris, a true French accordionist on one of the bridges. We had a lovely lunch at Le Petit Pont, a great spot for people watchig before leaving to catch our train. Be warned if you visit this cafe - a large glass of wine is nearly half a pint.

A fabulous five days.

Thanks so much Phil xx